The Magic of Paris Covered Passages: A Time Traveler’s Guide
Step back into 19th-century Paris. Discover the hidden glass-roofed arcades where history, shopping, and architecture meet—perfect for a rainy day.
Paris is a city of secrets, but few are as enchanting as the Passages Couverts. Built primarily in the 19th century, these glass-roofed shopping arcades were the precursors to the modern department store—a refuge for the wealthy flâneur to stroll, shop, and dine away from the rain and mud of the streets.
At their peak, there were over 150 passages. Today, less than 30 remain.
They are time capsules of the Belle Époque, housing antique bookstores, old-world philatelists, quirky toy shops, and historic brasseries. Here is your guide to the most beautiful covered passages in Paris.
1. Galerie Vivienne: The Neoclassical Beauty
Built in 1823, Galerie Vivienne is arguably the most luxurious of them all. Located near the Palais Royal, it features intricate mosaic floors signed by Giandomenico Facchina and a soaring glass rotunda adorned with goddesses and nymphs.
Why visit:
- Architecture: The lighting here is spectacular for photography.
- Wine: Stop by Legrand Filles et Fils for a glass of exceptional wine and gourmet épicerie treats.
- Books: Browse the rare books at the historic Jousseaume bookshop, which has been there since the passage opened.
2. Passage des Panoramas: The Gastronomic Hub
As the oldest surviving passage (built in 1799), the Passage des Panoramas feels authentically lived-in. Unlike the polished Vivienne, Panoramas buzzes with the energy of locals grabbing lunch.
Highlights:
- Philately: It was once the center of the Parisian stamp trade, and you can still find serious collectors here.
- Dining: It has reinvented itself as a foodie destination. Try Racines for Michelin-starred bistro fare or Gyoza Bar for something more casual.
- Théâtre des Variétés: The passage serves as the artist entrance to this historic theater, adding to its backstage drama.
3. Passage Verdeau: The Collector’s Dream
If you love vintage hunting, head to Passage Verdeau. It sits in line with Passage des Panoramas and Passage Jouffroy, making for a perfect continuous walk.
It is quieter, filled with light, and lined with shops selling antique cameras, old postcards, and rare comic books. It’s a nostalgic dive into the past.
Experience the Passages with an Expert
While these arcades are beautiful to walk through, their true stories are hidden in the details—the forgotten scandalous history of the Palais Royal, the revolution in architecture, and the lives of the characters who frequented them.
I offer a specialized Paris Covered Passages Tour that weaves through these hidden corridors. We explore the "Triangle of Gold," discussing the rise of the bourgeoisie and the art of the flâneur, ending with a tasting of traditional sweets.
View the Covered Passages Tour Details →
Practical Tips for Visiting
- Rainy Days: This is the absolute best activity for a rainy day in Paris. You can walk for hours without opening an umbrella.
- Opening Times: Most passages close at night (around 8 PM or 9 PM) and some are closed on Sundays, so check ahead.
- Etiquette: These are functioning businesses and residential areas. Be respectful when taking photos, especially in the quieter passages.
Discovering these passages offers a glimpse into a Paris that refuses to disappear—a city of elegance, curiosity, and shelter from the storm.